Today we visited our 5th National Park as a family, 3rd of the trip. We had no idea what to expect and for good reason… it’s hard to explain this place. In one word Maddy called it: different, Emmy called it: boring, Mat called it: unique, and I called it: strange. So what did the USA decide to protect and make a national park 100 years ago (it’s the centennial anniversary this year)? The hot springs mineral water that was thought to have rejuvenating and healing properties, and the bathhouses built over it as a means to provide access to the people. When I think of national parks I think of the first, Yellowstone, and the Roosevelt Arch with the words “For the Benefit and Enjoyment of the People” so I get that they wanted to protect this area because of its special history as a precious resource. It was actually named a a federal reservation way back in 1832 before Arkansas even became a state. My problem with this park and the notion that it was protected ‘for the enjoyment of the people’ is that the government covered almost all access to the spring water under green concrete locked boxes and routed all the water to bathhouses that for a time only white people were allowed to access at a fee that attracted the wealthy. Today, 8 bathhouses stand along Bathhouse Row, and only 2 are actually bathhouses: the Buckstaff (the ONLY one that has operated continuously from 1912) and the Quapaw Bathhouse (re-opened in 2007). The only way to access the spring water today is to make an appointment (by phone or in person only) for fancy spa treatments at one of these 2 houses and they book very fast! The Quapaw has a “public mineral pool” that you can pay $20 a person to sit in, but that has very limited space due to Covid, and no one under 14 is allowed! So I found the whole experience ironic… the land was protected so the mineral water could be accessed by all for future generations and it’s nearly impossible to actually access! Which is why I think Emerson’s assessment of “boring” is fair, especially being under 14. The other bathhouses have since been turned into other things: one’s the National Park Visitor Center, one’s a cultural center housing art works, one’s a gift shop, one’s a boutique hotel, one is a brewery that makes it’s beer and homemade root beer from the spring water (that was a good stop but avoid the dill pickle beer!) and one is still empty. In the spirit of protecting a resource that promoted health and wellness they also protected the land around the town with 26 miles of trails, making this the 2nd smallest National Park.

Despite the above review, we definitely found the fun. This was probably the best Jr. Ranger program because it did get the kids involved in a park that otherwise had limited activities for them. They had fun running up and down Bathhouse Row matching pictures of architecture to the right houses, looking for certain stained glass windows in the Fordyce Bathhouse museum, filling water bottles from the fountains with the hot spring water (so they did get to taste it even though they couldn’t soak anywhere). They worked hard for their pins under the hot Arkansas sun! Speaking of the Fordyce Museum: it was BIZARRE to walk through the old, preserved bathhouse that peaked in 1947. It had a feel of luxury with all the porcelain, marble and stained glass, but it also had the feel of a horror movie and asylums of the past as it felt sterile and abandoned! The various spa technologies and primitive exercise machines were interesting (esp. for this OT) but also resembled torture devices! Then again, the town is known for attracting MANY gangsters. They even have a Gangster Museum to celebrate their colorful history. Randomly, this place also attracted baseball players so you can take a walking tour to various spots significant to baseball history.

Our favorite bathhouse was Superior Bathhouse, home of the brewery. We had a fun lunch, sampled locals beers (one was pickled flavored and the videos of Mat and I trying it are pretty funny!). After exploring the national park sites in town we ventured to the Hot Springs Mountain Tower for views of the town and Ouachita Mountains. While I’m sure the trails offer a beautiful views of wooded park, it was WAY TOO HOT to hike so we drove up to the scenic lookouts.

The heat eventually chased us back to the pool and we never ventured back out even though Garvan Woodland Gardens was high on my to do list. The air-conditioned RV, games and quiet family time won out. Perfect. All in all it was a great day and I’m really glad we experienced Hot Springs National Park!

Wednesday, July 21st, 2021